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Red Flags in Sustainability Initiatives

Alignment with International Standards
1. No explicit commitment to international human rights standards or covers some but not all salient human rights
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​2. No explicit role for rights holders in standard setting
Scope
3. No requirement of brands to share responsibility with suppliers

​4. Does not adequately account for vulnerable people
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5. Does not adequately account for gender
Audits
​6. Allows the company or supplier being audited to pay directly for and/or choose the auditor

7. No requirement for auditors to have human rights competencies and knowledge of the local context

8. Audits not carried out in person, among other procedural weaknesses
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9. Audit passed on a non-representative sample or insufficient sample size
Grievance Mechanisms
10. No grievance mechanism at the initiative level and/or no requirement for a grievance mechanism in the standard
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11. No controls to ensure grievance mechanisms provide effective remedy
Governance & accountability 
12.  No or poor communication of the initiative standard and requirements to all stakeholders
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13. No process to suspend or withhold membership or certification until corrective action plans are adopted and implemented
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​14. Does not make information on audits, complaints, or compliance public
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Main Page > 14 Red Flags > ​​Governance & Accountability > Red Flag 14

14. Does Not Make Information on Audits, Complaints, or Compliance Public

  • What this means 
  • Why investors should care
  • What to look for 
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Public disclosure of audit methodology, compliance, and complaints lodged enables public monitoring and generates accountability and trustworthiness of the scheme. The International Organization for Standardization (ISO) addresses transparency in standard ISO 17021, which outlines requirements for bodies providing audit and certification of management systems. The standard requires certification bodies to be transparent in their operations, including the disclosure of their audit processes, the criteria used for certification, and the qualifications of their auditors.
 
The OECD Guidelines do not explicitly require companies to make their audit reports public. However, the Guidelines emphasize transparency, accountability, and disclosure as key principles for responsible business conduct. For example, the Guidelines encourage enterprises to disclose timely and accurate information on all material matters regarding their activities, structure, financial situation, performance, ownership, and governance. This includes both financial and non-financial information. Specifically, Chapter III on Disclosure recommends that companies ensure that their disclosure policies are transparent and provide information that is relevant for different stakeholders.
 
Unfortunately, transparency has yet to become a standard. In 2019, the Clean Clothes Campaign (CCC) reported on multiple standards that did not have the necessary transparency mechanisms.[1] One of those was Social Accountability Accreditation Services (SAAS), a division of Social Accountability International (SAI), the owner of the SA8000 standard. The CCC asserts that SAAS “does not reveal the number of workers per facility. Furthermore, audit reports, including identified and documented risks and any corrective actions taken, are not accessible to the public, workers, unions or labour rights organisations.”[2] SAI contests the point about public disclosure of audits since it often has the opposite effect: It tends to discourage transparency and can encourage obfuscation and audit deception by organizations seeking certification. Not publicizing audits is also important to protect workers' confidentiality.

Nonetheless, when affected stakeholders do not have access to the external audits, they cannot corroborate their validity nor can they measure progress and improvements.
[3] While care needs to be taken to ensure that making audits public does not harm rights holders, some level of transparency is necessary for stakeholders to know how well the certification is working to improve human rights protections in workplaces. Workers know their own workplaces best, just as communities understand their community dynamics and ownership rights best. Rights holders have unique insight into the intricacies of their work environments and are well positioned to validate or contest the findings of auditing reports. Re:Structure Lab’s Social Auditing and Ethical Certification brief notes that “[r]esearchers have highlighted the need for workers to have access to audit reports, as well as feedback mechanisms to report disputes and ideally seek remedy.”[4]

[1] Clean Clothes Campaign, “Fig Leaf for Fashion: How social auditing protects brands and fails workers,” Social Accountability International (SAI), Worldwide Responsible Accredited Production (WRAP), and Amfori BSCI are named in this report. (Ilona M. Kelly et al., Fig Leaf for Fashion. How social auditing protects brands and fails workers (Clean Clothes Campaign, 2019), 31,  https://cleanclothes.org/file-repository/figleaf-for-fashion.pdf/view.)
[2] Kelly et al., Fig Leaf for Fashion, 19.
[3] Gabriela Quijano and Joseph Wilde-Ramsing, A Piece, Not a Proxy (SOMO, November 25, 2022), 17, 
https://www.somo.nl/a-piece-not-a-proxy/.
[4] Genevieve LeBaron, et al., Forced Labour Evidence Brief: Social Auditing and Ethical Certification (Re:Structure Lab, July 2022), 25, https://static1.squarespace.com/static/6055c0601c885456ba8c962a/t/62d746146f5dc5205a17621c/1658275349325/ReStructureLab_SocialAuditingandEthicalCertification_July2022.pdf.
The fire at Ali Enterprises in Pakistan in 2012 that killed over 250 workers exposed severe failures in the auditing and certification processes there. The factory had been certified as safe under the SA8000 standard by the Italian auditing company RINA just weeks before the fire, despite significant safety issues such as blocked emergency exits and barred windows, which contributed to the high death toll as workers were unable to escape the blaze.[1]​ RINA's certification signaled that the factory met international safety standards, which was not the case. 

A lack of transparency and accountability with the audit created the conditions for the disaster. According to OECD Watch, the fact that these audit reports were not made available to affected rights holders preventing independent verification and undermining the credibility of the certifications, exacerbated the situation​.[2] An examination of factory conditions five years after the tragedy revealed that little had changed to genuinely improve worker safety​​.[3] In September 2018, Ali Enterprises Factory Fire Affectees Association, composed of several unions and NGOs, filed a complaint against RINA to the Italian OECD National Contact Point for breach of the OECD Guidelines. In the complaint, they called upon RINA to provide for the “public disclosure of future audit reports, at least to the relevant trade union, workers at the audited factory and relevant government agencies.”[4]
 
→ Demonstrates: Reputational risk

[1] Zia Ur Rehman, “Eight years after the Ali Enterprises factory fire in Pakistan, victims and their families are still fighting for justice,” Equal Times, October 19, 2020, https://www.equaltimes.org/eight-years-after-the-ali?lang=en.; European Centre for Constitutional and Human Rights (ECCHR), Case Report: RINA certifies safety before factory fire in Pakistan (December 2020),  https://www.ecchr.eu/fileadmin/Fallbeschreibungen/CaseReport_KiK_RINA_December2020.pdf.
[2] OECD Watch, Ali Enterprises Factory Fire Affectees Assoc. v. RINA S.p.A (September 11, 2018), 21, 
https://www.oecdwatch.org/complaint/ali-enterprises-factory-fire-affectees-assoc-v-rina-s-p-a/.
[3] Simone Preuss, “Five years after Ali Enterprises fire, not much has changed in Pakistan's garment industry,” Fashion United, September 13, 2017, https://fashionunited.com/news/business/five-years-after-ali-enterprises-fire-not-much-has-changed-in-pakistan-s-garment-industry/2017091317306.
[4] OECD Watch, Ali Enterprises Factory Fire Affectees Assoc. v. RINA S.p.A, 23.
Investors can examine the initiative's policy documents to understand whether audit reports are shared with affected workers or community members who can verify or dispute report findings. They can also check whether the initiative has a complaints database with detailed information provided.
➔    World Wildlife Fund’s Certification Assessment Tool (WWF CAT) includes the following stipulations: 
  • Certification bodies will post information about upcoming scheduled certification and surveillance audits on a common national and/or international scheme-operated website or mailing list.
  • Summary reports of certification and surveillance audits (including dates, locations, scope of auditing, team composition, main findings, and corrective action requests) are publicly available in a UN language and a common local language on a website.
  • Summary reports of certification and surveillance audits are made publicly available within 90 days after completion of the audit (see Red Flag 11).[1]

➔    ​Worker-Driven Social Responsiblity (WSR) Network requires members to provide detailed annual reports that include data on complaint volume and resolution time frames, overall suppllier compliance levels over time, and qualitative worker feedback on the WSR program's effectiveness.[2]

​➔    ​Fair Labor Association publishes the results of audits “to encourage an open and honest dialogue about the conditions that workers face, ensure brand accountability, and help consumers make more informed decisions about the products they buy.”[3]

➔    Fairtrade International’s Standard for Hired Labour requires audit results to be shared with workers. It mandates that “company shares audit results with workers following each audit in a format and language accessible to workers.”[4]

[1] WWF, WWF Certification Assessment Tool V3, (2015), 4,  https://wwfint.awsassets.panda.org/downloads/cat_fsc_14_5_15_final.pdf.
[2] 
Antonella Angelini and Shauna Curphey, “The Overlooked Advantages of the Independent Monitoring and Complaint Investigation System in the Worker-driven Social Responsibility Model in US Agriculture,” Business and Human Rights Journal 7, no. 3 (October 12, 2022): 497, https://doi.org/10.1017/bhj.2022.25.
[3] “Assessments,” Fair Labor Association, accessed July 1, 2024, https://www.fairlabor.org/accountability/assessments.
[4] Fairtrade International, Fairtrade Standard for Hired Labour (April 16, 2024), 9, https://www.fairtrade.net/standard/hl.
Does the scheme require certified entities (members) to publicly disclose their audits and remedial action plans?
❐  Yes 
❐  No

❐  Partially
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  • Home
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    • Responsible Contracting >
      • Main Page
      • A Primer
      • Five Resources
    • Red Flags in Sustainability Initiatives >
      • Main Page
      • The ​14 Red Flags
      • Our approach
      • Binding Agreements
      • Further Reading
    • Stakeholder Engagement Guide >
      • Main Page
      • Stages and Effectiveness Criteria
      • Financial Materiality
      • Our Approach >
        • Lexicon
        • Beta version
        • Social Dialogue
        • CAHRAs
        • Acknowledgements
    • Remedy Guide
    • HREDD Corporate Engagement Script
  • HREDD & EU Regulation
  • Collaborate
  • English
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